It's 9 a.m. on a Parisian aspect street in the eighth arrondissement, and Marta Rios is donning a navy polka-dot gown over an orange-and-purple tie-dye proper, cobalt blue tights, and chunky red Buffalo-trend sneakers. She's also wearing violently blue and crimson eyeshadow, blended out with a skinny black cat eye that extends a ways previous the corners of her lids, which are punctuated by way of two chunky red dots. "I even have heaps of little colour palettes and i just use my arms," she says, maintaining a thick Bobbi Brown pencil within the palm of her hand. "I don't even have brushes. I did this on the bus."
Rios's love of kaleidoscopic colour defines each her very own style and the quirky line of garb and add-ons she creates beneath the identify Atelier Mimii, which launched closing fall and held its first Paris fashion Week presentation on Monday. At age 14, the Spanish designer begun apprenticing with a tailor in Luxembourg on weekends, earlier than graduating from L'Institut Marangoni in Paris. Now, she is constructing a reputation for colourful quilted attire and matching luggage, which can be crafted from leftover dress textile. Rios's voluminous A-line numbers create a lot of scrap because the patterns are cut. "I retain everything," she says.
according to Rios, the message at the back of her brand is less linked to typical notions of sustainability and extra to the magpie character that compels her to save each bit of textile for reuse. As such, most of the bags are one in every of a sort and produced in confined portions. every little thing is made with the aid of hand in Valladolid, the little city outdoor Madrid where Rios spends four months of the 12 months.
Marta Rios in Atelier Mimii
photo: Courtesy of Atelier MimiiThis connection to Spain is essential to Atelier Mimii, notwithstanding Rios's relationship to her native land is an unconventional one. Her parents are Spanish, however she turned into born in Zurich, Switzerland, and lived across Asia (Indonesia, Vietnam, Hong Kong, and greater) for 12 years, earlier than spending time in Luxembourg and, ultimately, Paris. "I've on no account long past to faculty in Spain, I've not ever been taught to read or write in Spanish," she says. "but my house is very Spanish. every Christmas we might go to Spain, no matter what. It was like the handiest safe vicinity. Or the handiest usual location that we'd all the time go returned to. And my total household is there."
In Rios's newest collection, the profusion of ruffles, polka dots, and dramatically frilled fabric takes notes from classic Spanish aesthetics, like those considered within the art work displayed at the Prado museum in Madrid. Rios visits the Prado often, finding notion in her compatriot artists' use of colour. these polka dots, as an example, had been drawn directly from the ordinary flamenco costumes she grew up seeing, while the neck ruffles are impressed through art work of Spanish the Aristocracy from the early Victorian period. "I simply love them," she sighs. It's now not extraordinary for Rios to directly translate the work of lesser-known Spanish painters, but paintings of a extra international scope also plays out in her creations. ultimate season, she appeared to her favourite painters—David Hockney, Henri Matisse, and Otto Dix. "I'm smitten by twentieth-century painters," she says. "Jackson Pollock, Ernst Ludwig!"
Naturally, she determined to create "an paintings gallery under building" for her first presentation. Rios drew her own illustrations far and wide the ground, and fashions painted directly onto every other's naked dermis as a live pianist performed. Her signature bags, in impressive hues of purple, turquoise, and blue, were scattered about; extra fabric had been tacked onto them to create a enjoyable texture. As for the clothes, there have been quilted A-line clothes in distressed, hand-dyed velvet with Victorian sleeves and collars; quilted, pearl-lined corsets harking back to 16th-century Spanish courtroom costume; and a lot of marabou, chunky pearls, and tulle. If a little bit of sparkling pigment obtained on the items, the entire enhanced.
When requested to explain her visual frame of reference, Rios gives it some concept. "I always put on massive outfits and love, love, love colour. I don't personal any black, I don't personal any brown, any khaki, any dark blue, any beige, any caramel," she says. "I don't wear the rest that suggests my body classification. if you're skinny, fat, who cares about that, it's about displaying what you love and color." In other words, Atelier Mimii is her way of sharing her own trend and the clothing she has at all times desired to wear with the world. "I'm telling you, in case you put on color, it adjustments your temper," she goes on. "You walk down the highway, and the style that americans examine you if you're donning color, they smile."
Marta Rios in Atelier Mimii
photo: Courtesy of Atelier Mimii
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